More architectural porn to ogle.Today’s Daily News reports that the South Bronx (or SoBro as the real estate agents like to call it) is getting its "first elevator condo building."  Architect Magnus Magnusson,

This is a breakthrough. It will show that the South Bronx is no longer the backwater of New York City.

The apartments will be available through a lottery process. "Seven units are for low-income purchasers - who earn $58,320 or less per year for a family of four. A total of 39 apartments are for middle-income buyers - who earn up to $80,190 annually for a family of four - or moderate-income buyers, who top out at $94,770 for a family of four. Fourteen flats are "market-rate" - with no income restrictions.

Prices are expected to range from around $145,000 for one-bedrooms for low-income buyers to about $325,000 for market-rate three-bedrooms."

Related: Mixed Income Development :: Architectural Porn ::

 

Remember when Curbed mentioned this building the other week.  Well, here is another post-modern doozy soon to grace the skyline of Harlem.  What do you think?  Yea or Nay? (click the links to view.)

 
Summer is on and popping!  Although the official first day of summer isn’t until the 21st we are already sizzling with lots of fun activities jumping off all over the city.  Summerstage starts this weekend, Celebrate Brooklyn, Bryant Park’s film festival and concert series and more have already set the bar high for a summer that promises to be muy caliente. We hope everyone gets a chance to go out and enjoy themselves this weekend whether you are spending time with your Father or simply hanging out alone.  Here are a few end of the week links to hold you over until Monday (ummmm, links! Anyone know of a backyard cook out I can crash?)

• Roving reporters from our favorite Harlem based sites,  Greasy Guide and Harlem Fur, give their take on the new unlimited Wi-Fi initiative for Harlem.
• Pier 2110 offers tastings this weekend $30 pre fixe [via Greasy Guide]
• MTA Weekend Service Advisory and NEW podcasts [transittrax]
• NYU Film Student needs upscale apartment for a film shoot. Read details.
  
• Behold, the future of uptown architecture?  Lord, let’s hope not.
• Pack a picnic lunch and listen to some Jazz on the Meer!*
  
• Speaking of jazz, download free music daily…check the right sidebar.
  
• The Original Soupman (aka Seinfeld Soup Nazi) now has two locations in Harlem.  [Original Soupman]
• Special discounts to local Harlem businesses!  More info. on this to come next week.
  

*late adds

 
Our favorite foodie website Eater is notorious for their surprisingly accurate deathwatches of New York restaurants. Although we don’t want to step on anyone’s toes the recent closings we have reported lead us to present our own exclusively uptown predictions. A tipster is anticipating the next closing to be Native.  As a matter of fact, their website is already down. Due to the fact that I haven’t heard a lot of good reports about this restaurant he could be onto something. What would be even more interesting is the fact that they were recently mentioned in the New York Times article "Where to Eat" back in April. Has this 4 year old restaurant succumb to the tough audiences in Harlem or is it a false alarm? As usual, readers are welcome to chime in on their dining experiences at Native.

*Edit: An intrepid tipster simply known as Flip has informed us that indeed, Native is the next uptown restaurant on the deathwatch.  He found a real estate listing that includes the following information, "Currently operating as the French Moroccan bistro Harlem Native, this restaurant sits at the corner of 116th and Lenox Avenue in the Heart of Harlem…an art gallery is reportedly opening on the block, as is a bakery. Sorry, no nightclubs or bars." Thanks for the great detective work Flip! (see comments section for the rest of Flip’s tip.)

**Edit: In a strange twist of fate, Harlem Fur reports that a tipster informed him the new owner of Native happens to be none other than Melba Wilson of Melba’s!  As if that connection isn’t close enough Melba also happens to be the niece of Sylvia Woods of Sylvia’s.   

A newcomer that soon may be added to the deathwatch is Baton Rouge on 145th Street. It is co-owned by the same people who own Mo Bay and is located in the brownstone formerly known as the Sugar Hill Bistro.  Nothing good has been said about this restaurant on sites like Chowhound and today I noticed that they placed fliers under the windshield wipers of cars in the neighborhood - to drum up business???  Even if the food isn’t any good the drinks sound lovely (see their website). Anyone who has tried Baton Rouge please add your thoughts. Do you think that it can survive the unforgiving palates of Harlemites?

Back in April Harlem Fur wrote a lovely review of a little known restaurant called Elle & Lui near 119th Street.  A tipster on his site recently delivered the sad news that Elle & Lui are no more. June 22nd is the scheduled opening of a new "gourmet soul food restaurant."  Oh boy!  Just what we need in Harlem! As a lover of soul food and one who grew up with the savory goodness of homecooked greens and spicy red beans, I am not a huge fan of "gourmet" soul food cuisine. As a writer and a general optimist,  here’s hoping for the best. No name has been given to the new restaurant as of yet.  Naturally, we at UPTOWN flavor will keep you posted.

*update: the new owners kept the old phone number and have a message stating that the new name of the restaurant is Billie’s Black.  Their website is: Billie’s Black.com [website]

Also in April we wrote about a new restaurant called Butterfly Blue but it has pretty much under the rader since then. If any readers have been to B.B. please let us know about your experience.  We found the following from February:

"A cute little cozy restaurant just opened called " Butterfly Blue,"

Located at 1813 Amsterdam Avenue (Near 150th Street) on
Thursday’s, Live Jazz …real Jazz …Great Food! Great Drinks! GREAT
MUSIC! Friendly Atmosphere! You never know who you will see in this spot! 7:00pm - 10:00pm on Thursday’s"

Butterfly Blue Caribbean Style Restaurant
1813 Amsterdam Ave. (Corner 150th Street)
(212) 234 - 5334
No Cover Charge!

No, not the dance craze but the real estate game here in Harlem.  Many readers already know about the displaced residents who lived in Mitchell-Lama housing and now the whole controversy surrounding Pinnacle. Those are just the stories that we hear about in the news.

My next door neighbor is moving today.  As it turns out she and several other neighbors were moved into our renovated building temporarily three years ago while their building at 126th Street and Saint Nicholas was being renovated.  She is now moving back downtown into her old building. She was one of the few who put up with the shuffle game but think about how many more have just thrown in the towel.  A few months ago the New York Times and Amsterdam News wrote articles about the number of African Americans leaving New York.  Part of the reason is the fear of being displaced or outpriced after years of tolerating less than adequate services and accommodations.  I’m sure there will be more stories of this sort emerging as Harlem continues to gentrify.

If today’s New York Daily News article is any indication, things will not be improving for long time Harlem renters any time soon and buyers aren’t in a better position according to this article.

Related: Amsterdam News :: Protest in Garvey Park ::

It was bound to happen.  As if in response to the question posed by the New York Times back in April, "Where to Eat?" the plans for a meat packing district style restaurant row are underway for a five block area along the Hudson River in Harlem. Those familar with the area know that Dinosaur Bar-B-Que has already made a home in the area and the rumored arrival of the Hudson River Cafe seems to finally be coming to light this summer.  Read more about the forthcoming restaurant row here.

 
Now that Tom Cruise has completed his "mission" the big news has turned to impending rent increases for rent-stabilized apartments. 

Mission Impossible 5 seems to be keeping housing prices affordable in New York city. Taking into consideration the number of rehabilitated buildings in the Harlem area that are subsidized by the city the proposed rent increase is going to have an obvious economic impact on residents.  If they have a car they are in even more financial trouble.

At least the weather has been nice and spring like. Hopefully readers have been taking advantage of the weather by enjoying the wonderful parks and recreation that Harlem offers.  Stocking up on allergy medication might be a good idea too considering the high pollen count and it is only going to get worse.

Photo credit: (c) Donald Andrew Agarrat (Harlemite)

Best Un-Landmarked Music Landmark (Uptown) - Renaissance Ballroom

Harlem used to be known for the swank of its dance palaces, but time hasn’t been gentle with them. Urban renewal wiped out the Savoy (it used to stand at 596 Lenox Avenue) and the Cotton Club (644 Lenox Avenue). The shell of Small’s Paradise (229 1/2 Seventh Avenue) is barely recognizable, and the Manhattan Casino (Eighth Avenue and 155th Street) is a parking lot. But the old Renaissance Ballroom�where bands like Fletcher Henderson’s, Jimmie Lunceford’s, and Count Basie’s used to tack ‘em down�still stands on the southeast corner of Seventh Avenue and 133rd Street, mossy, boarded up, and sporting the occasional sapling growing from the cornice, but unbowed and clearly recognizable. If you stand there long enough, you’ll swear you can hear Louis Armstrong and Lester Young blowing through the weathered plywood.      

-David Wondrich

Seventh Avenue and 133rd Street, Manhattan

 

Source: Village Voice Best of NYC :: More: The Best of NYC, Harlem ::

UPTOWN flavor gets a little recognization from Curbed.  Thanks Lockhart!

Related links: Lockhart’s Story [vid] :: New York Magazine :: Business Week ::

               
 

Where ‘Buy Low and Sell High’ Are a Co-op’s Fighting Words

An Old Look for the New Harlem Architecture

By JAMES GARDNER February 14, 2006

Harlem is changing so quickly these days that you have only to visit it at monthly intervals to feel how swift the transformation has been. In a month, a building is razed and becomes an empty lot; an empty lot is filled with a steel frame; a steel frame is fleshed out into a building. Indeed, walking along Manhattan Avenue and Frederick Douglass Boulevard, a classically inclined pedestrian may well be reminded of Virgil’s description of the building of Carthage. The air resounds with the clamor of jackhammers, of men building, renovating, surveying. It is a hive of never-ceasing work.Turn your back, it seems, and everything is new.

To a degree unimaginable only a few years ago, gentrification is making itself comfortable throughout Harlem, especially in West Harlem around 118th Street. Nothing drives this home more than the gleaming new premises of some of New York’s most renowned realtors - Prudential Douglas Elliman, Corcoran, and Warburg. At the same time, however, these forces are converging to conserve, to re-create, or, where necessary, to invent an older Harlem, one that predates the arrival of large numbers of blacks in the neighborhood, and was built for and by wealthy whites like those who are now beginning to move in.

It is ironic that Harlem, which suffered more from bad Modernist planning and design than any other part of Manhattan, should now emerge as one of the largest beneficiaries of what is referred to as "contextual" housing. In practice that usually means something classical and, as such, something impossible without the tectonic shift in taste that took place 20 years ago.

Certainly you can find examples of contemporary Modernism in Harlem. The silvery boxes of the building that houses Nine West at 124th Street and Saint Nicholas Avenue, with their intermittently smooth and corrugated walls, are evocative reinterpretations of the machine aesthetic. Also good is the recently completed 314 W. 115th at the corner of Frederick Douglass Boulevard, a large volumetric mass whose flattened white and rose surfaces have turned to graphite gray.

But most of the work now being done in Harlem is vernacular, and here a paradox arises. Have we not all been told that the classical postmodernism of the 1980s is so thoroughly dead that no self-respecting architect designs that way anymore? Is it not evident, from all the design magazines, that we are witnessing a resurgent modernism whose unadorned angles and parsimonious curves are fashioned into gray and black monoliths?

That at least is the official story. But all over the country, the default mode of architecture is precisely the neoclassical architecture about which no one who counts has anything good to say these days. Once forged by architectural rebels, this style has now worked its way into the mainstream.

One especially powerful example of the style is the eight brownstone row houses and their imposing paired stoops on 118th Street between Manhattan Avenue and Frederick Douglass Boulevard.With the possible exception of the enlargement of the Jewish Museum a few years back, this is the only instance I know of a re-creation so successful as to seem thoroughly authentic to the period it imitates (in this case, the 1880s). For some time, I assumed that these structures - despite their pristineness - were more than 100 years old, until a local assured me that this site was a vacant lot only a few years back.

What is so impressive about this development is that, despite its contextualism, there is no easy historicism to it. The architecture does not slavishly imitate its models but enters into the logic of an earlier style and creates it anew. The architect has even achieved originality, applying to these spare, flattened facades, with their long, elegantly rectangular windows, the spirit, though not the letter, of that ultra-cool neo-Modernist vocabulary that is all the rage these days.

Far more typical of institutionalized neoclassicism, unfortunately, are the four row houses west of Frederick Douglass Boulevard at 120th Street. In these dull brick structures, with their rusticated base and oriel windows, you sense no personal input or initiative, only a clumsy amalgam of slightly ill-assorted parts. And like most neoclassical or contextual buildings, these houses’ great weakness, compared with the older architecture they imitate, is a feeling of ticky-tacky insufficiency.

You see this even more emphatically in much larger buildings like the Douglass at 279 W. 117th Street and 444 Manhattan Avenue at 118th Street. Both are huge and ungainly blocks of red and paler brick, with an assortment of fussy details that look so slight that a strong wind or a well-directed kick could topple them. They are not lovely, and their wrought-iron window grills are not fooling anyone into believing they are 100 years old. But for all their meretricious impurity, they are still better than the Modernist projects of 30 years back; with a little good will, we can allow ourselves to be gathered into their genteel illusions.

jgardner@nysun.com

Architecture

By JAMES GARDNER
February 14, 2006

Harlem is changing so quickly these days that you have only to visit it at monthly intervals to feel how swift the transformation has been. In a month, a building is razed and becomes an empty lot; an empty lot is filled with a steel frame; a steel frame is fleshed out into a building. Indeed, walking along Manhattan Avenue and Frederick Douglass Boulevard, a classically inclined pedestrian may well be reminded of Virgil’s description of the building of Carthage. The air resounds with the clamor of jackhammers, of men building, renovating, surveying. It is a hive of never-ceasing work.Turn your back, it seems, and everything is new.

To a degree unimaginable only a few years ago, gentrification is making itself comfortable throughout Harlem, especially in West Harlem around 118th Street. Nothing drives this home more than the gleaming new premises of some of New York’s most renowned realtors - Prudential Douglas Elliman, Corcoran, and Warburg. At the same time, however, these forces are converging to conserve, to re-create, or, where necessary, to invent an older Harlem, one that predates the arrival of large numbers of blacks in the neighborhood, and was built for and by wealthy whites like those who are now beginning to move in.

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Harlem’s Renewal Spreads to the Boulevard

By JULIA VITULLO-MARTIN - Special to the Sun
May 26, 2005


On a beautiful Saturday afternoon in May, Harlem’s Frederick Douglass Boulevard is happening. Hipsters and elegant West African couples sip ginger juice and eat couscous at Les Ambassades‘ outdoor cafe on 118th Street. Young businessmen with cell phones attached to their ears rush in and out of the UPS store up the block. Locals stand in line for the famous fried fish at Lovie’s Fish & Chips. The Moca Lounge won’t open until 5, but its elegant wooden facade looks beckoning - no ugly roll-down gates. And across the street at Harlem Vintage, wine lovers stream in for a tasting of roses. The slim, young Asian server pours wines made from esoteric grapes like Malbec, Lagrein, and Cinsault, and customers order cases to be shipped all over the city. The scene seems an unthinkably long way from the bad old days of the early 1980s, when the city government owned 70% of Harlem real estate and crime and drugs were rampant.

Welcome to the new Harlem, unquestionably one of the hottest neighborhoods in New York. The value of the average Harlem brownstone has increased 335% since 1995, in no small part due to cooperation between private developers and the city government, which worked together to make something of the whole blocks of derelict property the city foreclosed on in the 1970s. Today, the city has very little property left, "no more than 2,000 units," Housing Development Corporation President Emily Youssouf said. "Most of the city-owned sites have been sold to developers to build housing. At the same time, private developers have bought property, with no help from us, to put up market-rate condos."

Harlem brownstones now routinely sell for $1.5 million, and empty shells for $1 million. "1.5 is the new 1.2," said a prominent residential broker, Willie Kathryn Suggs. "Last year houses went for $1.2 million, and shells sold for $800,000."

However, the boom Ms. Suggs is talking about has largely taken place on Harlem’s glorious, brownstone-lined side streets and the historic sections of Morris Park and Strivers Row. Many of the avenues, including Frederick Douglass Boulevard, which is often called the gateway to Harlem, languished. "Nobody in their right mind went there in the early ’90s, much less bought a house there," said Ms. Suggs.

Crime was a huge deterrent to investment, but under the Giuliani administration, the tide began to turn. "A drug gang that controlled 116th Street and Manhattan Avenue roamed the area," said Ms. Suggs. "They had three or four murders a year attributed to them. The cops cleaned out the corner, threw them in prison."

So far this year, the 25th Precinct has had three murders, more than neighborhood residents would like and an indication that the neighborhood is not yet 100% safe, but still a far cry from the 37 murders recorded in 1993.

In 1995, the Giuliani administration started a program called HomeWorks, under which small, vacant, city-owned buildings were rehabilitated into one to four-family homes by experienced builders. The buildings were then sold in a lottery to individual home buyers at market prices. The city subsidized purchases by providing no-interest, no amortizing loans that were forgiven if the buyer kept the property for six years. Still, in those years buyers who put down their life savings for a home in Harlem or the Bronx were making a leap of faith, said Tracy Paurowski, director of Marketing for HDC, which financed the loans.

The crux of the Giuliani strategy, which has been continued under Mayor Bloomberg, is to encourage homeownership.

"Homeowners anchor neighborhoods in good economic times and in bad," said Carol Abrams, a spokeswoman for the Department of Housing Preservation and Development. "Homeowners who’ve invested a significant portion of their savings in their homes care about their property values, and care about good schools, safe streets, sanitation, and other neighborhood indicators. Home ownership has been the country’s primary vehicle for wealth creation - the national rate is 71% - and we want it here, helping to make neighborhoods vibrant and stable."

The strategy worked, yet even as the brownstone-lined side streets came back, the avenues struggled. "From a planning perspective, Harlem’s avenues are not where they need to be," says Ibo Balton, a neighborhood resident and director of Manhattan planning for the HPD. While the city government has been able to return 95% of its property in the neighborhood (almost 1,800 buildings and 26,000 units) to the private sector, it is only now reaping the fruits of its efforts on the avenues.

The Bloomberg administration’s major initiative for bringing back the avenues is Cornerstone, a multifamily, middle-income and market-rate new construction program that has produced 3,000 units in Harlem, 750 of which are in the Frederick Douglass Boulevard corridor.

One lucky new co-op owner is Jeanne Oliver-Taylor, vice president for Brokerage Services and Education at the Real Estate Board of New York. She paid $132,000 in 2003 for a two-bedroom apartment in Harriet Tubman Gardens, an eight-story, 73-unit co-op Cornerstone development between 120th and 121st streets on Frederick Douglass Boulevard. "I was so fortunate to get this apartment," she said. "I am so thankful, so blessed, with neighbors that are caring and interested in one another."

She barely squeaked by Cornerstone’s city-mandated income limits. Of the 73 units, 62 had to be sold to moderate-income households - those earning up to 165% of area median income or no more than $103,620 for a family of four. Another seven had to be sold to middle-income households earning up to 250% of area median income, or no more than $157,000 for a family of four. The developer was able to sell four penthouses at market rates, upward of $330,000. (There’s also a minimum income requirement of around $45,000.)

Ms. Oliver-Taylor’s apartment is pleasant and bright, overlooking a garden and a group of townhouses that were sold for $500,000. Her monthly maintenance is $636. "The townhouses were out of my price range," she said. "But they’re awfully nice, and the top two floors are rental." Harriet Tubman’s developer, Bluestone, retained the townhouses, and the ground-floor retail space rented by Harlem Vintage, a drycleaner, and a realty office. In other words, the development is helping put life back on the street through retail - and by providing customers.

"People always come first, then the restaurants and services and other good things," Ms. Suggs said. "The city is doing what it’s supposed to be doing: setting an example. It’s turning this property over to good developers who are going to build, then keep the buildings in fine repair, sweep the sidewalks, be a good neighbor. For the longest time the city didn’t know how to be a good neighbor. It sold Harlem buildings for a dollar to people who didn’t take care of them, just sat on them. What good did that do us?"

Every single site on Frederick Douglass Boulevard is "programmed," Mr. Barton said, that is, ready to be developed into moderate-, middle-, or market-rate housing.

Ms. Suggs does not doubt that the area is back. "Warburg on one corner, Corcoran on the other, Pru down the street, selling condos, going after the resales," she said, referring to offices opened up by other real estate firms.

For Mr. Balton the true measure of the success of the city’s programs in the neighborhood is that development is now occurring outside them. "Go to 115th Street, where Harlem Horizon is going up - full market-rate. We had nothing to do with it. Not a penny is government."

Graham Court

Once-Heralded Address Lags Behind Rest of Harlem

By JULIA VITULLO-MARTIN - Special to the Sun
January 19, 2006

At 9 o’clock on a recent Friday morning, a big guy in a scruffy blue coat stood dealing drugs in front of the main gate to the Graham Court, an Italian Renaissance palazzo called the most luxurious apartment house in Harlem by the AIA guide book. In its 1984 designation, the Landmarks Commission said the Graham Court reflected a "conscious effort to evoke an image of luxury," and is "one of the premier reminders of the urban development of Harlem at the turn of the century." Developed by William Waldorf Astor and designed by architects Charles Clinton and Hamilton Russell in 1898-1901, the Graham Court spans the block between 116th and 117th streets on the east side of Adam Clayton Powell Boulevard.

That same morning, an elderly man who looked like he could be an oldtime jazz musician walked frantically in a series of half-circles down 117th Street, slashing the air with a knife he held in his right hand. Spotting the open service entrance to the Graham Court, which was untended, he peered in cautiously then disappeared underground, a part of the building that had been one of the engineering marvels of its day, built to hold the carriages and the horses of the wealthy.

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Going Condo in Harlem

Going Condo in Harlem

Lenox Lounge: Who Owns Harlem?

Who Owns Harlem?

As an economic-development boom takes off in Harlem, residents hotly debate what path will lead the famed African American neighborhood into a prosperous future. Will its unique flavor and small, homegrown businesses be driven out by corporate projects?

From: Inc. Magazine, Aug 2000 | By: Paul Keegan

---

Harlem residents hotly debate who should lead them into a prosperous future: Billie Holiday and Duke Ellington, or Mickey Mouse and Starbucks

On the very spot where Billie Holiday once carved up hearts with her jagged voice, a quartet of black musicians in dapper suits eases through the ballad "For Heaven’s Sake" before a midnight crowd at Harlem’s Lenox Lounge. Ensconced in an upholstered booth and surrounded by zebra-patterned walls and silver-fin lighting fixtures, a visitor could be forgiven for expecting Lady Day to walk through the double doors of the Zebra Room, trailed by the scent of white gardenias. "That was her reserved booth over there," says owner Alvin Reed, pointing to a corner table in this club, which opened in 1942. "After she had a gig downtown, she would come up here to relax and sing a few."

Tall and slender, his beard starting to gray, Reed at age 61 remembers the days before Harlem became a global symbol of urban decay, when its artistic traditions bloomed and the sound of jazz bursting from corner bars was a balm for its chronic poverty. "When I bought this club, in 1988," he says, "I saw a Harlem that could come back."

More than a decade later, the Lenox Lounge has become a glorious example of what some are calling the Second Harlem Renaissance. Assisted by low-interest government loans, Reed, a local entrepreneur, already has spent $900,000 refurbishing one of the few original art-deco club interiors left in New York City. By doing so he hopes not only to make a profit but also to revive an idea that gained currency during the first renaissance of the 1920s and 1930s: that Harlem is to African American culture what Paris is to the French, and deserves to be treated accordingly.

Harlem’s most recent rebirth was spurred by an infusion of government money that began in 1996. But even at this early stage of the economic-development boom, some residents and local entrepreneurs are complaining that there has been too much emphasis on corporate projects — developments like the new Harlem USA mall that now dominates the main commercial strip of West 125th Street — and not enough on small, homegrown businesses like the Lenox Lounge. They worry that a Faustian bargain is being struck without their consent: that development is happening so fast and is so dominated by outsiders, that the price could be Harlem’s soul.

In many ways it’s a familiar story: a historic district tries to balance development with preservation of its unique character. But more is at stake here than the fate of a single neighborhood. After decades of being decimated by poverty and neglect, the epicenter of African American culture for most of the past century could finally be crushed, ironically, by uncontrolled growth.

With its complex character and history, Harlem has always been more than an African American enclave. Settled in 1658 by the Dutch, it was a prosperous suburb during the 19th century and home to many waves of European immigrants, especially the Irish, Italians, and Jews, some of whose descendants remain. Broadly defined, the neighborhood stretches from 155th Street to 110th Street on the West Side, and to 96th Street on the East Side. Government planners often lump Harlem together with all of Upper Manhattan, a predominantly Hispanic area that includes Spanish Harlem, Washington Heights, and Inwood.

For much of the 20th century, Harlem stood as the embodiment of the African American dream of freedom and prosperity. Thousands of working-class blacks migrated to the area from the South before and after World War I. During the first Harlem renaissance — one of the most creative periods in American history — the neighborhood was a mecca for black intellectuals, musicians, writers, and artists such as Duke Ellington and Langston Hughes. Harlem gave birth to bebop in the 1940s, and during the civil-rights era it became a political nexus as leaders like the Reverend Adam Clayton Powell Jr. and Malcolm X rose to prominence. "Harlem is the recognized Negro capital," wrote author and civil-rights activist James Weldon Johnson.

But middle-class flight in the 1960s and 1970s left Harlem in the grip of crime, drugs, and joblessness. In the decades that followed, several attempts at revitalization failed for reasons that, depending on whom you ask, include the misappropriation of government funds, redlining by banks, dangerous streets, negative stereotypes perpetuated by the media, corporate myopia, and out-and-out racism.

Today, thanks to a booming national economy and a massive influx of government money, Harlem finally seems to be undergoing a true economic transformation. Developers running out of real estate in lower Manhattan are venturing into the area. Meanwhile, federal empowerment-zone legislation introduced by local representative Charles Rangel is kicking into gear after a slow start. During the next four years nearly a billion dollars in public and private investment capital is slated to find its way into Upper Manhattan.

Many residents embrace this evolving landscape. Crowds jam the sidewalk outside Harlem USA, which is owned by a consortium of three developers, one of them from the neighborhood and two from outside it. The mall brims with the kind of chains and superstores previously unknown here: a Disney Store, HMV records, a nine-screen Magic Johnson Theatres complex, the New York Sports Club, and other businesses that will ultimately create 500 much-needed permanent jobs. (Despite new investment, Upper Manhattan remains the most economically depressed section of the island. Its unemployment rate of 18% is more than four times the national average.)

"Look at this — only $10," says a kid outside an Old Navy store, unfurling a pair of chinos as he lines up for the grand opening of Modell’s Sporting Goods and the chance to score free Yankees tickets and meet New York Knicks legend Earl "the Pearl" Monroe. His friend, sucking on a Frappuccino from the Starbucks down the street, nods approvingly.

---

"They are just setting up a megastore in front of my place and saying, ‘Survive it.’"

---

Not everyone is equally sanguine, however. Wrapped in the colorful, flowing dress of his native South Africa, Sikhulu Shange sits in the back of the Record Shack, a long, narrow store on West 125th Street. With his deep voice and crisply enunciated English, Shange projects indomitability, a quality that has served him well in 30 years of doing business in Harlem. It was local merchants like himself, Shange says, who held the neighborhood together "when Harlem was hemorrhaging, when everybody was running away."

The Record Shack is a local institution, born in the ferment of the Pan-African movement of the late 1960s. That movement’s roots stretch all the way back to the early part of the century, when Marcus Garvey urged blacks to control their own destinies by owning their own companies. In 1921, African Americans owned about 80% of the businesses near 135th Street and Seventh Avenue, where Garvey’s Universal Negro Improvement Organization was based. Tycoons like Madam C.J. Walker, who became so rich selling hair-care products that she had a mansion built in the white suburb of Irvington-on-Hudson in 1918, became role models showing what black entrepreneurs might accomplish.

In Harlem, all that is ancient history. Today only 35% to 40% of the 250 or so retail businesses on 125th Street are minority owned, according to Barbara Askins, president of the 125th Street Business Improvement District. (The percentage is higher for service businesses.) "And now there is this ‘revitalization’ under the banner of the so-called empowerment zone," says Shange, nearly spitting out the words. The arrival of the chain stores is just the final stage of a gentrification process that has been going on for years, he explains, as he ticks off the names of African American-owned restaurants and clothing stores forced out of business by rising rents. "The process of installing that kind of machinery is gradual," says Shange. "In the end it just grinds everything up."

It’s hard to imagine how Shange, with his small selection of African, Caribbean, and other CDs locked inside glass cases, will compete with the giant HMV opening across the street in Harlem USA. Officials of the Upper Manhattan Empowerment Zone (UMEZ), the joint federal-state-city nonprofit development corporation created by Congressman Rangel’s legislation, defend their decision to lend more than $11 million — or 17% of the total financing — to the developers of the mall by saying there will always be a market for locally owned niche stores like the Record Shack.

Such comments make Shange livid. "That’s somebody talking off the top of their head, somebody who’s never even run a fish-and-chips joint, so what is it that they know about what makes me tick?" he says. "These big stores have so many square feet of space loaded down with the same kind of merchandise I’m selling. They are just setting up a megastore in front of my place and saying, ‘Survive it.’ "

Outsider-owned businesses are not new to Harlem, of course. Nor are the impassioned reactions they arouse. There have been violent episodes, such as the 1995 rampage by a black nationalist named Abugunde Mulocko, who burst into Freddy’s Fashion Mart, a Jewish-owned clothing store, and set a fire that killed seven people before turning a gun on himself. Other situations have been resolved peacefully: the "Buy Where You Can Work" campaign in 1934 pressured Blumstein’s department store to hire black clerks and pioneered the modern economic boycott.

The arrival of the chains is more complex — and less charged with issues of race. At least one, Magic Johnson Theatres, is a partnership between the basketball superstar’s development corporation and Loews Cineplex Entertainment. And Richard D. Parsons, the chairman of UMEZ’s board of directors, and Terry C. Lane, the organization’s CEO and president, are African Americans. The superstores present a difficult target for community activists because residents enjoy shopping there. Even the stores’ harshest critics concede that they provide employment, albeit in primarily low-level service jobs.

Residents flock to Harlem USA to buy name brands at cheap, grand-opening prices; the neighborhood has a serious case of pent-up demand. Like many inner-city areas, Harlem is a drastically underserved market, lacking the businesses that provide basic goods and services that other places take for granted. Imagine an area that has a population larger than Seattle’s but has no full-service supermarkets, no hotels, hardly any dry cleaners, and only four movie screens. That described Upper Manhattan until the current redevelopment added a Pathmark supermarket, a string of Kleener King dry cleaners (set to open soon), and the Magic Johnson Theatres complex. Harlem still doesn’t have a single hotel, although a 300-room Doubletree is in the works for Washington Heights. All told, government planners estimate that Upper Manhattan loses $1 billion in retail sales to other neighborhoods.

Residents also grant the chains a warm reception because they equate the stores with status. "Everybody thinks if the superstores come in, somehow it’s a mark of progress, and that’s true whether it’s an inner-city black neighborhood or an upscale white suburb," says Roberta Brandes Gratz, who has studied hundreds of American cities during 30 years of writing about urban issues. (Her most recent book, Cities Back from the Edge: New Life for Downtown, was published in 1998.) "This is a sad commentary on who we are as a country, but it is a reality."

The notion that the presence of superstores somehow validates Harlem gives some community leaders fits. "We don’t need them for us to value ourselves!" proclaimed William E. Davis Jr., an architect and former commissioner of the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission, as he rose to his feet at a recent seminar on historic preservation in Harlem. The crowd burst into applause.

Nor are the chains necessarily a great bargain. Some residents say that the prices at the new Pathmark on East 125th Street seem to be climbing and are higher than the prices offered in Pathmark stores in more affluent neighborhoods. (Pathmark denies those claims. "That’s not the reality," says Rich Savner, a spokesman for the chain. "Harlem’s prices are the same as the rest of New York City.") Still, the mere idea is galling, especially to some residents of Central Harlem, where the median household income is $20,000, a third less than the citywide figure. Facing the rising cost of owning and renting real estate in Harlem, those people fear being priced out of their own neighborhoods.

"It makes me crazy when I see chain stores being promoted as giving people quality goods at decent prices," says Gratz. "That’s one of the great myths. They come in and start cheap, but the price goes up, and suddenly you’re paying more. You might be getting something you didn’t have before, but it’s a myth that you’re getting something cheap or necessarily better."

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"Nobody’s gonna ruin Harlem. Anybody who spends money is green as far as the cash register is concerned."

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UMEZ sees stores like Disney and Old Navy as magnets for new investment. The agency is charged with distributing $300 million in loans and grants using federal, state, and city funds and $250 million in federal tax credits over a 10-year period. With so much money at its disposal, UMEZ has become a flash point for critics who accuse it of favoring big corporate developments over local businesses. Some Harlem entrepreneurs complain that UMEZ has rejected their applications for much the same reason given by big banks — that their projects are too risky — and that that defeats the whole purpose of such an agency. Others say that they were approved for loans but that the interest rates were too high. UMEZ, for its part, says that some local businesspeople come in asking for huge loans with no documentation.

"I know that no economic strategy is sustainable without mom-and-pop businesses whose owners live and work in the community," says UMEZ’s Lane. But of the $115 million in loans that UMEZ approved between 1996 and 1999, $42 million falls under the heading of "Business Recruitment and Retention" — meaning that the funds go mostly to big projects like Harlem USA and the Vibe Store, an urban entertainment superstore. "Small-Business Development," which includes projects like the Lenox Lounge and a local credit union, accounts for only $18 million, or 16%.

UMEZ has doled out another $38 million on tourism initiatives, the next big item on its agenda. Harlem is considered a vast untapped market for that industry, which in 1997 pumped nearly $14 billion into the New York City economy. "Harlem is a trademarkable, marketable concept," says Lane. "It’s one of the most famous communities in the world. We need to capitalize on that."

Some community leaders see tourism as Harlem’s savior, providing the neighborhood with the wherewithal to restore its historic and cultural treasures. And so far the projects funded by UMEZ sound promising. They include local groups like Boys Harbor, which is building an archive of Latin music, and the Studio Museum of Harlem, which wants to expand its store selling African American and other artwork. Other recipients are such organizations as the National Museum of Jazz, a New York City nonprofit that has proposed building a multipurpose facility to be developed in conjunction with the Smithsonian Institution. A downtown developer plans to revive the now-defunct Minton’s Playhouse, the hallowed birthplace of bebop, by renovating the original building and creating a music venue, a bar, and a restaurant.

But Harlem’s history with tourism has left some residents skeptical. Many resent those visitors — often from Asia and Europe — who are trucked in on tour buses to attend a gospel church service, enjoy a soul-food brunch, and maybe visit the Apollo Theatre, and are then carted away before nightfall. "Sometimes tourism here is handled like it’s a jungle safari," says Lloyd Williams, president and CEO of the Greater Harlem Chamber of Commerce. "Like they’re in the wild kingdom looking at the animals running around." Visitors don’t venture far from their buses because they view Harlem as dangerous, despite the fact that the homicide rate has fallen 77% in five years, a decrease greater than even the city’s well-publicized drop.

Some local entrepreneurs think Harlem USA and similar developments can help soften the area’s image by blending the comfort of the familiar with more "authentic" offerings, such as the African boutiques on West 125th Street and the new nightclubs and restaurants. "Nobody’s gonna ruin Harlem," says Horace Balmer as he stands on a recent Saturday night outside Showman’s, the jazz club he co-owns on West 125th Street. "That mall is fantastic. Business is business. Anybody who spends money is green as far as the cash register is concerned."

Balmer, senior vice-president for security at the National Basketball Association, is a former New York City police detective who has lived in the neighborhood for 25 years. Showman’s has an even longer history here: it was originally located next to the Apollo Theatre and frequented by the likes of Duke Ellington, Eartha Kitt, and Pearl Bailey. After being destroyed by fire, the club reopened on Frederick Douglass Boulevard and later moved to its current location to make way for Harlem USA.

The unabashedly capitalistic fervor exhibited by people like Balmer frightens some residents, who say it encourages reckless development. Michael Henry Adams, a historical preservationist who lives in the neighborhood, believes the key to preserving Harlem’s character is protecting its historic buildings with landmark designations. Such designations not only satisfy preservationists and historians but also foster tourism, according to Adams. "Buildings have the ability to transport people back in time," he says, "so they can experience Harlem the way Langston Hughes or Zora Neale Hurston saw it."

The New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission has come under heavy criticism for declaring few Harlem buildings fit for historical landmarking, while large swaths of wealthier areas like Greenwich Village, SoHo, and TriBeCa are protected. Whatever the explanation — politics, bureaucratic ineptitude, and racism are among the suggested culprits — the result is that many important buildings have already been destroyed, including the Audubon Ballroom (where, among other historic events, Malcolm X was assassinated), the Cotton Club, and the Harlem Opera House. Others are threatened by deterioration or by cost-conscious developers.

"Most of the development plans seem to lack any kind of vision or appreciation for how special Harlem is," says Adams. "The whole notion of Harlem is this large collection of broken-down old buildings that ought to be swept away and replaced with something you might find in Paramus, N.J. That’s like taking Paris and just knocking it down."

What Adams wants to save are places like Small’s Paradise. Architecturally, there’s not much to it: a three-story brick building now boarded up and covered with graffiti. But Small’s was once the most prestigious black-owned nightclub of the renaissance, featuring expensive drinks, dancing waiters, and performers like Cab Calloway and pianist Charlie Johnson. Most notably, it was frequented by both blacks and whites at a time when many Harlem clubs were whites-only establishments.

"We’re supposed to get the ground-floor corner," says Dr. Reginald Manning, an African American orthopedic surgeon from Brooklyn, as he stands outside Small’s. Manning and a small group of investors are planning to bring the building back to life. But the crowds that Manning expects won’t be flocking to a museum, a concert hall, or a jazz club. Rather, they’ll be gobbling down flapjacks at a new International House of Pancakes.

The building that IHOP will soon occupy is currently managed by the Abyssinian Development Corp. (ADC), a nonprofit group affiliated with the Abyssinian Baptist Church, which is headed by the prominent minister, Reverend Calvin O. Butts III. The ADC, which has been spearheading much of the development in Harlem — from the Pathmark supermarket to a Sterling Optical outlet — says it tried to bring Small’s back as a nightclub, but nobody would finance it. The decision to let in the IHOP was made after several years in which the space stood empty. "We made a real effort, but in Harlem it’s three times more difficult to do a deal like that," says Karen Phillips, president and CEO of the ADC. Phillips points out that because there’s little capital in Harlem, outside money is often required. "At some point, to save the building, we had no choice," she says.

At press time the IHOP deal was being finalized and had received little publicity in the community. But Adams says he doesn’t expect a huge outcry. "If this were Rome and things like this were happening, people would be up in arms," he says. "But because this is a largely black urban area, people have been preoccupied by survival and basic things like health care for so long, they’re fatalistic. They’re just resigned to being ignored and neglected."

Ultimately, it is the community’s responsibility to fight to preserve its history and culture, development experts say. But like many neighborhoods, Harlem is not sufficiently organized to yoke development to its own terms.

Comments author Gratz: "You need strong, committed, knowledgeable local organizations that can fight not just the chains but also local brokers, who don’t even want to hear about how to negotiate with a local business, and property owners, who think that renting to a chain is more lucrative than renting to a local business and in many cases get burned. And banks who don’t know how to finance local people. You’ve got a whole litany of hurdles that have to be attacked at the same time. So far in Harlem I don’t see the kind of community-based institution that can or, more importantly, that wants, to make that happen."

"We’re under cultural siege," says Barbara Ann Teer, founder of the National Black Theatre. "Tourism and culture are trillion-dollar businesses around the world. But if you go to Hawaii, you can’t find anything authentic anywhere. We need to build monuments, institutions that perpetuate who we were and who we are. If we don’t codify our own culture, our own infrastructure, we will cease to exist on this planet."

Harlem’s fate, in the end, may depend on how many entrepreneurs like Alvin Reed are out there. When Reed’s family moved to Harlem in 1945 from Richmond, Va., the Lenox Lounge was for white customers only — with exceptions made for celebrities like Billie Holiday, who would sing with the all-black band. Reed is the classic self-made businessman, a bootstrapper who got his start selling newspapers, shining shoes and, while in the army, lending fellow servicemen money, much of which, he assumes, went for hookers.

Reed also worked for the post office and the police department; his retirement income and the money from a second mortgage on his home purchased the Lenox Lounge. It was a daring venture, made riskier by his decision to hire major jazz players at a time when Harlem wasn’t luring many outsiders interested in such music. He recently upped the ante with a $450,000 empowerment-zone loan (later increased to $575,000) used to restore the club to its former pristine condition.

Reed is determined to stick it out for as long as it takes to pay back those loans, an imposing debt for any small-club owner. It’s going to take a while, even at the average 7% interest rate he got from UMEZ; even with his great location at West 125th and Lenox; and even with his new cover-charge policy ($20 buys admission to the Zebra Room and two free drinks, although Reed plans to raise the price when the addition of a restaurant allows him to offer food as well). Still, Reed is optimistic. His son, Alvin Reed Jr., recently quit a job at Xerox to work at the Lenox. And Reed hopes grandson Alvin Reed III, age 3, will go into the family business someday, too.

"I think people my age got to retirement and realized what we had left behind," the club owner says. "A lot of middle-class blacks left because of drugs and the neighborhood going down, but now a lot of them want to come back, for their conscience. They’re starting new businesses, joining the YMCA, donating to black organizations, and rehabbing these old buildings and renting them out."

Reed knows that to survive he’ll have to attract outsiders willing to pay the cover charge and order dinner from the new kitchen. But he doesn’t want the place to become a tourist trap and hopes his regular customers, who still hang out in the no-cover front bar, will always consider the Lenox Lounge their local watering hole. Because in the long run, whether you’re a lifelong resident or a tourist, everyone wants Harlem to feel like Harlem. "It won’t be easy," Reed says, as he watches his club fill with customers on a Saturday night. "But we’re trying to show people this can work."

Paul Keegan is a freelance journalist based in New York City.

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